On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 6:05 PM, Jason White <jason(a)jasonjgw.net> wrote: If it is just a battery you could do that yourself, just remove the cover and unplug the Sealed Lead Acid battery (SLA) measure it and get a replacement from a local battery supplier or Jaycar has them as well, also as well as size confirm voltage but in most cases it is 12 volt That would save you money if it is just the battery if not then you could look at a service/repair Of course this is reliant on your skills with electronics, if you dont feel comfortable dealing with electronics then a company is the way to go, I cant help with one as I repair that sort of stuff myself YMMV -- Mark "Pockets" Clohesy Mob Phone: (+61) 406 417 877 Email: hiddensoul(a)twistedsouls.com G-Talk: mark.clohesy(a)gmail.com - GNU/Linux.. Linux Counter #457297 "I would love to change the world, but they won't give me the source code" "Linux is user friendly...its just selective about who its friends are" "Never underestimate the bandwidth of a V8 station wagon full of tapes hurtling down the highway" "The difference between e-mail and regular mail is that computers handle e-mail, and computers never decide to come to work one day and shoot all the other computers"

Hello Jason, On Fri, 2012-10-12 at 18:05 +1100, Jason White wrote: I have a couple of UPS's, one is true sine wave and runs my clock radio, the mains up here is prone to dropouts that will unset the cock. The battery slowly failed, and gave almost no backup time for even a minor load. I bought the right replacement sealed lead acid battery from Jaycar and put in myself with ease. The second is modified sine wave, and the clock ran fast when the power failed, too fast even for brief outages. I was using it for a PC, but it has "failed" in some fashion. I will try replacing the battery on that in the near future also. It will cost, but much less than buying a full UPS will. As commented, it is not unduly difficult, but do ensure that it is fully turned off and unplugged, and whomever is changing the battery only goes near the 12 volt stuff, and nowhere near the 240 volt output or the inverter. Since they are in a sealed enclosure, apart from possibly connections to the output sockets, that is not difficult. For my home environment, I was well able to do for myself, but then I was brought up on electronics, and electrics, both low voltage and mains. It is the current that does the damage, but it needs the volts to drive the (micro)amps to do damage. Also you need two connections and a current path. My father related how some colleagues in the UK had to work on a live switchboard, at high voltage. They put a wooden table there, with a sheet of glass on the top. Thus they were well insulated from any ground connection. The work was all conducted with one hand only, so no current path. They were able to touch a single live connection, and their body would "float" at that voltage, but as stated, no current path, no current flow, no harm. It does require considerable discipline and attention to detail to get it right, and considerable suppression of reflexes. Regards, Mark Trickett